Fire & Hammers

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Sparkly Things and Fire

20Aug09

Stones and their ilk have been in the news over the past week or so for a variety of reasons.

First of all was the news of the violent murder of a British-born gemologist, Campbell Bridges, the discoverer of Tanzanite and Tsavorite. Investigations are ongoing at the time of posting.

Another crime involving sparkly stones was the theft of £40M of jewellery from Graff in New Bond Street, and again, investigations are ongoing.

On a brighter note, and one which appeals to the archaeologist as well as lapidary, is the discovery of stone tools in South Africa which had been “heat-treated” to make them easier to work with.

The report is in Science magazine here: http://www.sciencemag.org/cgi/content/summary/325/5942/820. This is only the summary, as you have to sign up and log in for the rest of the article (yes, I know – it’s cheapskate of me not to…)

Filed under: Stones, lapidary | Leave a Comment
Tags: fireandhammers, uk, Jewellery, jewelry, news

Reader’s Digest #1

06Aug09

How many times have you seen the same old books recommended on jewellery making blogs or websites?

There’s nothing wrong with them, but I expect you’ve already heard about Tim McCreight, Jinks McGrath, Sylvia Wicks et al. Great books full of useful – nay, downright essential – information for the practising silver worker.

However, sometimes what we need is inspiration, not practical techniques. And it doesn’t always come from nature, or mathematics.

Here’s ten of my personal library of inspirational books – in no particular order.

This is a long post, but it has pictures (!) and oodles of links.

1. Bugatti: Carlo, Rembrandt, Ettore, Jean

This is a new book, to me, but already I’ve devoured it.

I’ve been aware of Carlo Bugatti’s furniture for longer than I guessed (viz. the Frank Lloyd Wright book below), but I have my brother to thank for my accidental rediscovery of it. After seeing a photo in one of my brother’s car magazines showing the interior of the Bugatti found in storage recently, I went searching for “Bugatti” on AltaVista image search.

What I found was the furniture of Carlo Bugatti.

Breathtaking in its striking beauty, while I can see the influences (Renaissance Italy, Arabesque, the Arts & Crafts Movement, Art Nouveau, Jugendstil) I am stunned by the way in which Carlo Bugatti has combined these to create his own style. The balance of the pieces, the detail, craftsmanship and feast of textures – all inspire me.

With the exhibition-standard photos in this book, I can see, close up, how the furniture pieces are embellished. For example, the detail (on the cover): this is the first picture I’ve seen of this in closeup. I couldn’t tell if the pattern was made with tiny mirrors, or studs, or mother-of-pearl buttons.

It’s brass, punched and pierced, on a background of vellum.

Brief on biography, because little is known about Carlo Bugatti, but good for photos showing the development of his style from original architectural studies to silverware and jewellery.

As a bonus, there’s the work of his sons: a nice enough car (Jean Bugatti), a very nice Bugatti racer (Ettore Bugatti), and the muscular animal sculptures of Rembrandt Bugatti, which are exquisitely powerful.

2. Frank Lloyd Wright: Master Builder

I have my father to thank for introducing me to the work of Frank Lloyd Wright, although, given my interest in architectural design and the period during which he was active, I suspect I would have found him sooner or later…

Twenty-five of FLW’s buildings are in this book, spanning his career from the 1890s to the 1950s. That’s longer than I’ve been on the planet. Not just buildings, but furniture and textiles and some of the architectural drawings made prior to building work began, with detailed information on each house and a little bit of his life story included in each chapter. There’s more than a hint of BladeRunner about some of his ’20s & ’30s houses.

This book is a nice size paperback with lots of photos and a good enough biography. (Plus, there’s a Carlo Bugatti occasional table on page 101 ).

3. Glasgow Girls: Women in Art and Design 1880-1920

I went to the Exhibition of which this book is an accompaniment, way back in 1990, when Glasgow was European City of Culture. This was before Charles Rennie Mackintosh had become a heritage industry, and the city was undertaking a revue of its position as second city of the Empire.

I won’t delve into the politics of then (or even waaayyyyy back then) because the book is about art. (BTW, I was christened in Queens Cross Church, so there.)

More specifically, the art of Margaret MacDonald (Mackintosh), with its repeating lines and forms and what my father used to call “them floating faces”. Also includes, amongst others, Frances MacDonald (McNair), Margaret’s sister; the flamboyant Jessie M King; and sisters Dorothy and Olive Carleton Smyth (worth Googling).

I was already studying archaeology when I saw the exhibition, and had the book bought for me for Christmas; probably a good thing, because at that stage I didn’t think I was capable of what I produce now. Anyway, the book is chock-full of pictures and biographies of some very inspirational women, both in terms of their art, and in their lives and lifestyles.

4. Masters: Gemstones: Major Works by Leading Jewelers

Ah, just fab. Shows what can be done with cabochons and facets and carved stones, set into metals, on top of each other, side by side, into each other, sparkly bling or the weird sea-creature-type work of Susan & Jeff Wise, the gold-on-iron of Pat Flynn, or the intricate compositions of Michael Boyd.

I’d like to see a book like this showcasing UK artisans (because I know they are out there); but for the moment, this will do nicely.

Fascinating to look at and very inspiring.

5. Design Handbook (Icons)

Brief explanations of what each style is, what its typical materials are, and the thinking (if any) behind it.

Good photographs of a multitude of iconic items with strong design aesthetics, from a Wedgwood vase of 1786 to a Toshiba CT scanner from 1997. Includes packaging, brands, ergonomics and more.

6. Ethnic Jewellery: From Africa, Asia and Pacific Islands

Like big chunky jewellery? It’s in here.

Like delicate enamelwork, or filigree? In here.

Jewelled daggers, defensive bracelets, belts, earspools, pipes, coral, gold, silver, tiger’s claws? Yup, in here.

This is a massive (12″ square) treasure-trove of a paperback book full of pictures: colour plates of museum pieces, with detailed descriptions; photos of people wearing items so you can get an good idea of scale and how they were worn; cultural backgrounds of the jewellery and its use, purpose, meaning (guess what – people everywhere put their special jewellery in a safe place… anthropology amazes me sometimes…).

There’s bling, and then there’s ethnographic bling. I know which kind I prefer.

7. Celtic Knotwork by George Bain

One of the first books I bought about art, in the mid-80s, when it was produced as a series of mini-handbooks covering what you would see in one chapter here. Construction techniques are detailed, with corresponding sketches of Scottish and Pictish artefacts which show the technique.

Heritage, draftsmanship, useful.

Knotwork appeals to my technical drafting side, as it’s nicely repetitive, it’s fun to work out your own patterns, and then you can colour it in! Wahey!

However, I realise that I will never be Jim Fitzpatrick (he has a better moustache – and a LOT more skill).

8. History of Beads

Fantastic book which manages to fulfil my archaeologist self and my beadaholic self. Thoroughly recommended, great photos and text, a monumental book which deserves a place on your coffee-table and not on the shelf.

9. Collectible Beads by Robert Liu

Go on, feed your obsession… This one appeals to my bead-hungry part, as I know I can’t have lots of beads about the place. Can’t afford them, can’t afford the storage they deserve.

This is the next best thing, chock-full of beautiful photographs, heavy, huge, and written by the editor of Ornament magazine.

10. The Jeweller’s Directory of Shape and Form

Good pictures throughout, “Shape & Form” is eye candy for serious design.

Variety of illustrated things including sketches of construction, includes considerations of wearability and permanence as well as ratio and balance. From sparkly diamond-y things to paper-and-perspex concoctions.

Filed under: Inspiration, Jewellery | Leave a Comment
Tags: architecture, Art Nouveau, books, bugatti, design, Frank Lloyd Wright, Glasgow Girls, Glasgow Style, gold, Inspiration, iron, Jim Fitzpatrick, links, Mackintosh, ornament, pictish, reading list, Stones, uk

How to be a daredevil #1

20Jul09

Next time you’re in Birmingham, take a trip up to the top floor of the Selfridge’s building. You know the one – the rounded thing with the shiny metal discs on the outside like a big Balinese bead.

Go up to the fourth floor, and find your way to the opening above the atrium.

Go over to the railing. Put your shopping bags down at your feet, put out your hands, and hold on. Lean against the railing. Look over the edge if you like. You can see the food hall from up here.

That’s it.

The daredevil part? It sounds quite tame, but the architect of the building has had a little fun here. The balcony railing is set at an angle which is way, way over your centre of gravity. There is no way you can fall over the balcony, and it’s solid enough to bear your weight. But even though you know this, it still feels like you’re going to fall flat on your face.

Cheap thrills, huh? Try it – tell me it’s not just me.

P.S. No leaping. If you think you might be tempted, call the Samaritans (08457 90 90 90).

Filed under: silversmithing | 1 Comment
Tags: fireandhammers, uk, Birmingham, daredevil, selfridges, gravity

Quickie!

06Jul09

Now that the summer exhibition is over, I can start work on the rest of my jewellery career (and all the other projects I have going on).

First of all, however, I decided to add some more links to the right of the page here. Some are websites that interest me jewellery-wise, some are the websites of my friends, and some are just places I find interesting.

More to follow soon (including the Horseshoe Crabs!).

Filed under: silversmithing | Leave a Comment
Tags: fireandhammers, uk, Inspiration

Summer Exhibition 2009

23Jun09

It’s that time of year again: Bristol School of Art end-of-year Exhibition – and this includes me for, sadly, what will probably be the last time.

I decided not to take more evening classes next year. The defining moment came about half way through the second term, about mid-February, when the tutor asked me to help one of the other students with a stone-setting. I took that as a message that, while I still have a lot to learn abut metalcraft, I ain’t gonna learn it at evening classes. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my time at Art School, and found the experience transformative. (I wouldn’t be writing this blog if I hadn’t been there.)

Plus, it makes me a little self-conscious to be sat next to people who are learning to make their first bezel, and I can throw them off like ring-pulls (!not!). If I’d had that experience in my first class, I might have been a little put off.

Mind you, when I mentioned this to my classmates they were wholeheartedly supportive (nice thing about evening class ) and pointed out that it’s been less than four years since I was a complete noob, and they find that inspiring (I think that was the word they used – I’m sure they’ll correct me!)

So for all of us – not just the jewellers, but the sculptors, painters & printmakers, too – here’s an advertisement:

Bristol School of Art, Queens Road, Bristol (just off the Triangle, next to Habitat) – Art Exhibition

Saturday 27 and Sunday 28 June 2009

1000-1600 daily

Come along and see us before we’re famous!